1. Buying bubble mailers online is one of the best ways to save money while selling hundreds or thousands of coins per week. Depending on the size of the mailer, they cost a dollar to over a dollar each at the post office. So you don’t have to waste time looking for these bubble mailers, I ran a search on the internet for them. I can get them for as little as.09 apiece! That’s a lot of money saved. To get your discounts, simply go to Royal Mailers and enter “coinprofits” in the Coupon Code box. You can buy one size or mix and match. They are the cheapest on the internet by far.
2. Never buy common gold coins when gold is at an all-time high. Their worth is determined by the current price of gold. As a result, their book values rise in tandem with the price of gold. When the price of gold falls, they lose a lot of value quickly.
3. Always buy legal tender gold coins instead of bullion gold bars or bullion gold coins when gold is down. Legal tender gold coins can rise in value more quickly than gold spot, although bullion gold just tracks the price of gold.
4. When purchasing gold bullion, always purchase the smallest increment possible. When compared to gold spot, these small bars offer the biggest markup. Just make sure it’s at least.999 fine gold.
5. Always purchase “red” specimens when purchasing copper coinage. Red copper coins are extremely popular among collectors. This is why they always appreciate in value more quickly than “brown” and “red-brown” coins. IF YOU BUY THEM UNSLABBED, BE SURE TO PROTECT THEM FROM TARNISH!!
6. A copper coin can be described as “red-brown” on any slab. However, this is always a “uncertain” quality. It appears reddish at times and entirely brown at other times. If you have the option, choose a “redder” specimen. Look carefully before you buy because I’ve seen a lot of “brown” coins branded “red-brown.”
7. If a copper coin is labeled “red,” always check to determine if it is genuinely red. They aren’t always bright red. Be wary of coins that have been graded by the ANACS. Although certain copper coins in ANACS slabs are classified “red,” they are actually “red-brown.”
8. If you don’t know the difference between true and fraudulent toning, never buy unslabbed toned coins. Because there are so many various methods to tone a coin, it’s easy to be duped. Scammers tone coins artificially and grade them at phony grading companies. As a result, you should only buy coins with rainbow tones from PCGS, NGC, ANACS, or ICG.
9. Coins with different tones are attractive. However, some coins have a tone that isn’t particularly appealing. I would never purchase a coin with darkened toning. The coin is scarcely visible after this blackening. As a result, never purchase toned coins that are either darkly toned or too softly toned. Always go for coins that have bold, vivid, and colorful hues.
10. Some coins have blemishes here and there, while others are flawless. Purchasing totally “white” coins is in your best interests. Because many collectors prefer their coins to be pristine, these are easier to sell. For some of the newest coins, such as Silver Eagles, this is a requirement.
11. Proof coins are always difficult to grade. If they aren’t proof 69 or greater, they lose a lot of their value. A raw specimen is preferable than a coin graded proof 68. Buying a coin graded proof 68 isn’t worth it because proof coins normally average proof 69+. As a result, you pay a higher price because it is graded, but you receive nothing in return. Even the box and COA are gone. You might have spent less for an ungraded specimen that is almost certainly a proof 69 or above.
12. Be wary of BS grading businesses’ high grades on popular date coins. (Many of them are just cheap cases rather than slabs.) Because they are so hard to come by in good grades, a lot of common dates are worth a lot of money. So, BS grading companies hunt for a common date that looks nice and grade it MS69 or MS70. In actuality, the most of them aren’t even close to MS65. Most of the time, those grades aren’t available for that particular coin. For a couple of bucks, you could have simply purchased the same coin in the same quality or higher. It’s wise to avoid grading companies that aren’t well-known. You’re paying a lot of money for nothing.
13. If the book value of a lesser grade and the next grade up of a coin is quite close, always buy the better grade. When it comes to a key or semi-key date, a higher grade is usually a better investment. The value of important dates is continually increasing. Higher grades, on the other hand, are likely to appreciate more quickly.
14. Purchase coins only from PCGS, NGC, or ANACS. The coins are frequently overgraded by all other grading firms. Some phony grading services will even grade counterfeit coins, so be wary!
15. Do not purchase “fake” coins. Fake coins are those that are not produced by the United States Mint. Many of them are of poor quality and are mass-produced. Some of them aren’t even pure silver or gold. Many of these “collection coins” start with a low-cost core and are later gold- or silver-plated. Gold and silver bullion coins that are.999 pure or better are the only non-US Mint coins worth purchasing.
16. Never buy cleaned coins, artificially toned coins, coins that have been exposed to the elements, scratched coins, coins with corrosion, altered coins, gold plated coins, copper plated coins, painted coins, rusty coins, replated coins, pitted coins, coins certified by BS grading companies, doctored coins, bent coins, whizzed coins, holed coins, filler coins, or culls. Always buy problem-free coins since they are easier to sell, have a higher value, and have the potential to increase in value. Problem coins have a difficult time increasing in value.
17. If a large or dramatic inaccuracy isn’t indicated on the slab, don’t sell it. If you sell it as is, you will not earn fair market value. It’s always a good idea to have it reslabbed.
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